I'm deleting a few veggies from my garden this year... those I seldom eat although I enjoy them immensely, and those that are always iffy for me to grow (like melons, peppers and sweet potatoes). I'm finding it is less stressful to just buy those occasional things at the farmer's markets, as long as I know the vendor and how he or she grows them.
The things I will give more garden space are the vegetables that I can overwinter in the root cellar (mostly winter squash), or put up by either lacto-fermenting, freezing or canning... things like sauerkraut, green beans and tomatoes. Also vegetables that are far too expensive for me to purchase on a regular basis... such as fennel bulbs, leeks and shallots.
This year I'm trying to grow some cipollini onions that are carried on many olive bars (in balsamic vinegar). I LOVE them but not at $9 a pound!
"Cipollini onions (pronounced chip-oh-lee-knee) were once a rare treat only to be found at fancy restaurants and the occasional gourmet market. We’re glad they’re finally getting their due attention...Now what exactly are they?
Their name literally means “little onion” in Italian, and indeed they are! Cipollinis are about the size of a golf ball with a flattened appearance. They’re thin-skinned and have translucent white flesh with more residual sugar than your average yellow or white onion.
Which makes them incredible for roasting or caramelizing. Roasted whole in the oven or cooked in a little butter on the stove top, cipollinis become soft and practically melt in your mouth. Those residual sugars caramelize and concentrate, leaving behind none of the astringent raw onion flavor.
Seriously, you haven’t had caramelized onions until you’ve made them with cipollini onions. Even you onion-haters out there might be swayed!" Source
The challenges are endless, the possibilities immeasurable, and the payback divine.
Showing posts with label Winter Food Storage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Winter Food Storage. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Rice Cowpeas
Another newbie in my 2012 garden: rice cowpeas (click the link to see a photo of them after drying and shelling.) I've never grown any cowpeas, aka Southern Peas before, so how they grow off the top of the stems was a big surprise to me!
I bought the seeds because the dried tiny white cowpeas aren't much larger than rice, and said to cook in 40 minutes. I think this might be a nice quick-cooking staple for the pantry.
The cowpea (Vinga ungulculata) is considered nutritious with a protein content of about 23%, fat 1.8%, carbs 67%, and water 8-9%. As in most legumes, the amino acid profile complements cereal grains.
Cowpeas are fun to grow, tasty and a great choice for novice, expert and children gardeners!
The cowpea (Vinga ungulculata) is considered nutritious with a protein content of about 23%, fat 1.8%, carbs 67%, and water 8-9%. As in most legumes, the amino acid profile complements cereal grains.
Cowpeas are fun to grow, tasty and a great choice for novice, expert and children gardeners!
Monday, September 10, 2012
Winter squash 2012
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Winter Squash 2012 |
This year I grew a couple of winter squash varieties that are new to me, Red Kuri (also known as the French Potimaron squash), and Spaghetti squash. It was a bad year for my garden, between the drought and high summer temps, so I'm okay with the scant harvest. The vines are all cut down now (except one) so this is the sum total of my winter squash.
The orange squash in the photo are Red Kuri and the long white one is a spaghetti squash. I only got 2 spaghetti squash off 4 plants, and one of those split and got buggy. Even with just one edible squash, the price of the seed packet was less than half of the price of one spaghetti squash in the stores.
Also in the wheelbarrow are what I didn't plant, and they are not volunteers either, since they were in new garden areas.
On the right are 2 white acorn squash, and there's still one on the vine. They are not seeds I ordered, so they must have been in a mislabeled or mixed seeds packet. The two pale yellow orbs at the bottom of the photo are unknown but look more like a melon of some sort to me, althogh it has been suggested they could also be immature spaghetti squash. They possibly came from the same mis-marked or mixed seed packet. All came from a reputable heirloom seed supplier.
The spaghetti squash is not a long-keeper in the root cellar, but the Red Kuri and the Acorns should keep for several months. Plenty of squash for just me!
Monday, September 12, 2011
Requirements for Long-Term Vegetable and Fruit Storage
This is a list from a great root cellaring book I've owner for nearly 30 years. It was written by Mike and Nancy Bubel, and Rodale published it in 1979. A newer edition is still available in paperback (and I highly recommend this book). The information below is from my copy and provided here for educational purposes only, which the copyright law allows.
The Bubels cover many, many good ideas in their book from designs and personal observations to timely planting, harvesting, and which varieties store best. This list below is the general storage requirements for some vegetables and fruits.
Cold and Very Moist (32-40ºF and 90-95% Relative Humidity)
Carrots
Beets
Parsnips
Rutabagas
Turnips
Celery
Chinese cabbage
Celeriac
Salsify
Winter radishes
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Collards
Broccoli (stores short-term only)
Brussels sprouts (stores short-term only)
Horseradish
Jerusalem artichokes (aka Sunchokes)
Parsley root
Cold and Moist (32-40ºF and 80-90% Relative Humidity)
Potatoes
Cabbage
Cauliflower (stores short-term only)
Apples
Grapes (need 40ºF)
Oranges
Pears
Quince
Endive
Escarole
Grapefruit
Cool and Moist (40-50ºF and 85-90% Relative Humidity)
Cucumbers
Sweet Peppers (45-55º)
Cantaloupe
Watermelon
Eggplant (50-60º)
Ripe tomatoes
Cool and Dry (32-50ºF and 60-70% Relative Humidity)
Garlic (keeps better at 50% RH)
Onions
Moderately Warm and Dry (50-60ºF and 60-70% Relative Humidity)
Dried hot peppers
Pumpkins
Winter squash
Sweet potatoes
Green tomatoes (up to 70ºF is okay)
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Root Cellaring
One of the attractions to this house when we bought it 6 years ago was the root cellar. I never had a root cellar before, and only a general idea of all the ways they could or should function. Now that I have used it increasingly more every year for several years, I have learned some short-comings that should be improved if I am to depend on it for storing more than a few foods over winter.
I thought I'd pass on my thoughts here since a lot of folks seem to be considering longer-term perishable food storage as our economy tanks. Food storage doesn't have to be a separate building... it could be part of a basement, or garage, or a closet in a cool room. It could be a stack of straw/hay bales covered with a tarp, or garbage cans buried in the ground. There are many possibilities, but the requirements are all pretty similar where the food is concerned. The faults in my root cellar may be helpful if you are planning a food storage area.
Some known problems with my concrete block root cellar:
1. There is no constant air exchange; fresh air only enters when I open the door. All perishable foods need some minimal air circulation, and especially so in more humid environments. Air exchange is easily accomplished by a low pvc pipe to the outside, and a ceiling height pvc pipe to the outside on the opposite wall; natural convection does the rest. Be sure to screen the pipe from bugs and critters.
2. There is only one humidity range: moist ...or even somewhat wet when rain runoff seeps down and into the back wall at the concrete floor joint. Most vegetables require different humidity levels for optimum storage and well-planned storage areas are generally zoned. Plus, any foods in my cellar that are dried have to be in sealed glass jars to prevent dampness seeping in. (I seal them by dipping the lids and jar necks in melted paraffin unless the jars have an old-fashioned rubber ring seal.)
I'll do a follow-up post on some requirements for different foods. The "zones" are cold and very moist, cold and moist, cool and moist, cool and dry, and moderately warm and dry.
3. Too much natural light. The window and the glass in the door let in enough light to allow potatoes to sprout in early spring, long before it's time to plant potatoes. The light also robs vitamins/nutrients from all the visible fruits and vegetables, or any ferments stored in clear glass jars.
4. No provision for preventing summer heat. Nothing much has frozen inside my cellar in during winter since it's built partway into the hillside. However, as the weather starts to warm up in late spring, so does the root cellar. Any foods remaining decline rapidly. They would be still edible for longer if the building had some insulation besides the dirt mounded mostly up the rear wall and barely up the side walls.
5. It is not varmint-proof. I see signs of field mice nesting inside, and I saw where they munched on apples over this last winter. There is a gable roof over my cellar and the ceiling above the cellar is not sealed well, so that's an entry point. Also, the door weather-stripping has failed, and field mice can get through amazingly narrow openings!
6. It is not large enough. Well, it was when I first began using it, but as I'm learning what all can be stored successfully, it has grown too small! To be fair, it also houses the spring water pressure tank that I use for the garden, and now also houses my cheese cave and the mini-cheese cave for blue cheese.
In previous years it has been useful to store potted perennials like my 2 fig trees, a patio peach which I just gave away, and 3 blueberry bushes... but now those will have to go in the ground before this winter. (The blueberries were only potted because I have been acidifying a proper place to plant them. The figs will freeze to the ground here but should come back each spring.)
Even without the potted plants, the cellar is now too small to store as much variety as I have discovered I can safely store. The shelving (which is only on the back wall and one side wall) runs from waist-high up to the low ceiling, and is filled with jars of dry goods that will not be harmed by freezing... things like pasta, beans, rice, powdered milk and home-dried vegetables that won't fit in my pantry in the house. Below the shelving is all the space I have remaining for vegetables (3' tall x 1' deep x about 11' feet in length), leaving a narrow walkway in the center; the cheese caves and water tank take up the opposite wall. I try not to store anything near the doorway since that uninsulated wall no doubt allows some freezing temps inside a foot or more during winter.
With more storage area, I could keep and easily access several containers of carrots, beets, rutabagas, sunchokes and parsnips, etc. stored in slightly damp soil or sawdust. Potatoes I can store loose in a bin, but not with apples in the same room. The ethylene gas given off by apples causes the 'taters to sprout, and affects the storage life of some other vegetables. Last year I stored 3 bushels of apples but I didn't have any potatoes to store. I did have winter squash that didn't keep like they usually did before I started storing apples. I threw away over a bushel of butternuts that rotted. I don't know if it was the apples or not, because it was so moist in the cellar last winter. (Winter squash and pumpkins need fairly dry storage conditions.)
Some remedy will come to me, sooner or later. In the meantime, I hope my observations have given you some ideas to consider.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Volunteers Do Pay!
I've posted several times this year about having volunteer winter squash (and tomatoes) in my flower beds. The tomatoes don't have their first blush of color quite yet (as this was written on July 30), but I have harvested some of the winter squash, shown above.
Right now the squash are 'curing' on the front porch for 3 weeks before going in the root cellar, and those volunteers will be a lovely addition to my winter fare this year.
Pretty good return from just letting Nature take over, huh?
ps, the plastic container on the left is a few blackberries I had just picked.
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