The Importance of Trees

This is a gentle, touching and inspiring movie called "The Man Who Planted Trees", and I encourage you to fix a cup of herbal tea (or a glass of wine), and make the time to and sit back and enjoy watching it. The video is beautifully drawn in what appears to be hand drawn pastel charcoals; it is narrated by Christopher Plummer. Written by Jean Giono, this popular story of inspiration and hope was originally published in 1954 in Vogue as "The Man Who Planted Hope and Grew Happiness."

The Man Who Planted Trees tells the story of Elzeard Bouffier, a man who, after his son and wife die, spends his life reforesting miles of barren land in southern France. He patiently plants and nurtures a forest of thousands of trees, single-handedly transforming his arid surroundings into a thriving oasis. Undeterred by two World Wars, and without any thought of personal reward, the shepherd tirelessly sows his seeds and acorns with the greatest care. As if by magic, a landscape that seemed condemned grows green again. A film of great beauty and hope, this story is a remarkable parable for all ages and an inspiring testament to the power of one person.

There's an interesting story about the importance of trees in our world, "Why Trees Matter" published in the New York Times.

Excerpt:

 

"What we do know... suggests that what trees do is essential though often not obvious. Decades ago, Katsuhiko Matsunaga, a marine chemist at Hokkaido University in Japan, discovered that when tree leaves decompose, they leach acids into the ocean that help fertilize plankton. When plankton thrive, so does the rest of the food chain. In a campaign called Forests Are Lovers of the Sea, fishermen have replanted forests along coasts and rivers to bring back fish and oyster stocks. And they have returned.

Trees are nature’s water filters, capable of cleaning up the most toxic wastes, including explosives, solvents and organic wastes, largely through a dense community of microbes around the tree’s roots that clean water in exchange for nutrients, a process known as phytoremediation. Tree leaves also filter air pollution. A 2008 study by researchers at Columbia University found that more trees in urban neighborhoods correlate with a lower incidence of asthma.

Trees also release vast clouds of beneficial chemicals. On a large scale, some of these aerosols appear to help regulate the climate; others are anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral. We need to learn much more about the role these chemicals play in nature. One of these substances, taxane, from the Pacific yew tree, has become a powerful treatment for breast and other cancers. Aspirin’s active ingredient comes from willows.

Trees are greatly underutilized as an eco-technology. “Working trees” could absorb some of the excess phosphorus and nitrogen that run off farm fields and help heal the dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico. In Africa, millions of acres of parched land have been reclaimed through strategic tree growth.

Trees are also the planet’s heat shield. They keep the concrete and asphalt of cities and suburbs 10 or more degrees cooler and protect our skin from the sun’s harsh UV rays. The Texas Department of Forestry has estimated that the die-off of shade trees will cost Texans hundreds of millions of dollars more for air-conditioning. Trees, of course, sequester carbon, a greenhouse gas that makes the planet warmer. A study by the Carnegie Institution for Science also found that water vapor from forests lowers ambient temperatures."

I'm planting trees this year, are you?

We will miss this great woman, Maria Thun

I love this photo, from Floris Books' tribute to Maria Thun

 

My fruits, flowers, leaves and roots will miss Maria Thun, "The Grandmother of Biodynamics", and so will I. The legacy of this eminent researcher (and the impact of her work on me) is so great it's difficult to describe.

For many years I have dabbled in planting by the moon signs, sometimes with success, and sometimes not. Then I discovered Maria Thun, who died in February of this year, just 2 months shy of her 90th birthday. My sowing success has increased greatly since following her calendars, although I still have lots to learn. I will have to keep following her planting calendars "by the book" (unless I can learn enough to to see the different constellations and the moon's passage through them, which is unlikely). Fortunately, Maria's son Matthias and daughter Christina have been working with her for many years and will continue the calendars.

Maria was born on a farm in Germany, and noticed her father would observe the sky every morning and evening before determining when it was time to plant. After she married in the 1940's, she began following the Ruini calendar which referred to star constellations in a broad manner, hoping it would give her the ability her father had to judge the right time for sowing. She started by experimenting with radishes and discovered variations between crops sown on different days, in spite of the seeds and soil conditions being equal.

Maria's husband introduced her to some biodynamic farmers, and she began taking courses at the Institute for Biodynamic Research. The principles of biodynamic agriculture were first proposed by the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924. He spoke of life forces not detectable by our physical senses, yet linking together the universe and all living things. He believed that the energy of plants can be affected not only by human actions and the weather, but also by the energy of the moon, stars and planets. Decisions about when to sow and prune, he suggested, should be made according to patterns of lunar and cosmic rhythms.

Rudolf Steiner had pointed out the connection between cosmic forces and the growth of plants, so Maria began studying the astronomical calendar of the Goetheanum. She discovered that every two or three days the moon passed into in a different constellation of the zodiac. This made her decide to study astronomy more intensively. She found that radishes acquired a different form and size depending in which constellation they were planted.

Maria Thun continued experimenting with sowing during the 1950's with almost all types of crops to see whether the movement of the moon had the same effect on all crops. Over years of research she concluded that root crops (including onions and leeks, which are not technically root crops) do best if sown when the moon is passing through constellations associated with the earth signs; leafy crops do best when the moon is associated with water signs; flowering plants do best associated with air signs, and fruits did better with fire signs. From her observations she divided passage of the moon through the zodiac into four: root days, leaf days, fruit days and flower days, each indicating which type of plant is best sown on each specific day.

The news of the results of her trials spread quickly through the biodynamic movement, and  The Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar has been published annually for the last 50 years. As the extent of the trials expanded, so did the calendar and early on it was translated into French and Finnish, and today it is available in 27 languages. 

The results of planting and harvesting different plants at particular times have been well-documented over the years. Biodynamic techniques in agriculture can have a significant effect on the quality of the crops and how well they last. Maria Thun's book, Results from the Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar, shows that if farmers and gardeners link their work into these cosmic rhythms, the quality of their produce is markedly increased, and is based on over 40 years of research.

The information on the background and research work of Maria Thun came from:

RachelCarson.org

Floris Books

The Telegraph UK

Amazon Books

Maria Thun also wrote Gardening for Life and When Wine Tastes Best

Buy Safe Seeds, guaranteed not GMO seeds

Several folks have asked where I buy my seeds. I really don't buy many, except for new things I want to try. Most of my seeds are my own saved seeds, or from swaps with friends.

Safe Seed Program

When I do buy seeds, I ONLY buy from a company that has signed the Safe Seed Pledge.

Here's the Pledge:

"Agriculture and seeds provide the basis upon which our lives depend. We must protect this foundation as a safe and genetically stable source for future generations. For the benefit of all farmers, gardeners and consumers who want an alternative, we pledge that we do not knowingly buy or sell genetically engineered seeds or plants. The mechanical transfer of genetic material outside of natural reproductive methods and between genera, families or kingdoms, poses great biological risks as well as economic, political, and cultural threats. We feel that genetically engineered varieties have been insufficiently tested prior to public release. More research and testing is necessary to further asses the potential risks of genetically engineered seeds. Further, we wish to support agricultural progress that leads to healthier soils, genetically diverse agricultural ecosystems and ultimately people and communities."

The Safe Seed Resource List by State

For more information contact: 

The Safe Seed Project 

The Council for Responsible Genetics

5 Upland Road, Suite 3

Cambridge, MA 02140

Telephone: (617) 868-0870

Rooting fruit and nut tree cuttings

First time for everything! I finally decided to try and root some woody fruit and nut tree/shrub cuttings. So far I have a bunch of elderberry, Nanking cherry (for the birds, hoping they leave other fruits alone), filberts (hazelnuts) in potting medium under a plastic-wrap cover to increase humidity. I still have beach plum and both red and black currants to cut. According to my biodynamic planting calendar, the next optimal time is March 14-17, but they may be in full bud by then.

The hardest thing for me is remembering to keep the cuttings oriented in the direction they were growing when I cut and handle them. To plant them, I mixed up 1/3 sand with 2/3 organic potting mix, and dampened it well. I had put the cuttings immediately in a container of water, so all I had to do was cut segments below a node, re-wet the bottom, dip in rooting hormone, and stick in the pot.

The containers I'm using are half-size disposable steam table pans (aluminum) from Sam's Club (a package of 30 was $6.28). I poked drain holes in the bottom of a few, put some plastic spacers in the bottoms of some others without the drain holes, and put the medium-filled, drainable containers on top of the spacers. The pans are plenty deep for the cuttings, and the outer pan will catch any excess water.

Here's the progress so far:

Elderberry cuttings, dipped in hormone and placed in pot on Feb. 17, kept covered for a moist environment. I did have to take the lid off a time or two as something moldy-looking was growing on a couple of the tips.

Nanking Cherry and Hazelnut cuttings, started the same day as the elderberries. The hazelnuts don't show any signs of growth from the bud nodules yet, but the cherries flowered, and a few now even show tiny signs of leaf tips. Those white strips holding up the plastic "tent" are slats from a window blind.


It's too soon to disturb any of these cuttings to see if they are actually beginning to root, and frankly I'm a little nervous that they may not root! These trays are kept on the bookcase under my living room windows where they only get a half-day of light. I will post again when I know for sure if I passed, or failed the "rooting cuttings" test!

Chick Grit for Successful Seed Starting!

Those dreaded words "damping-off disease" instill fear in the heart of every gardener who starts seeds. It is a fungal disease, and there are several things besides sterility and cleanliness that can help mitigate the problem. Chick (starter) grit is one of them. Chick grit is crushed granite, and available in sizes "starter" and "grower", from somewhat fine to much larger grit. It does a great job of covering the seeds, much better than using the same soil, or soilless mix, used beneath the seeds. It's really cheap ($6-$7 for 50 pounds), and all farm stores carry it. You might also find it in small bags (for caged birds like parakeets) in a pet store... but I looked at PetSmart today when I went to buy cat food, and they didn't have any.


Use the finest grade of chick grit (which might be oyster shell powder instead of granite dust, which I've heard it's not good for chickens) for any really tiny seeds, and a slightly coarser grade for bigger seeds, more like the size of sand grains. 

If you are starting medium to large seeds, you could probably use the grade of grit for mature chickens (grower grade, shown above), which is all my feed store had in stock this year. Last year I put the extra (unused) granite dust to my garden as a source of potassium and trace minerals. It’s a great soil conditioner for clay based soils. I need to drive over to the quarry and see if I can get a couple of pounds of somewhat finer rock powder since my feed store was out of starter grit.

edited to add: Phooey, the quarry was closed on Saturday, so you'll just have to take my word on the chick starter grit size...

The amount to use as covering varies; it depends on the seed size, but usually a covering 3 times thicker than the size of the seed. Best to follow the directions on the seed package. The advantage of using grit is that it breathes, and doesn't mat or cake up like other seed coverings (vermiculite, sphagnum, etc.) can.

I use a small, fine strainer to distribute the fine grade of grit over tiny seeds, bumping the strainer against my hand to get just a light dusting. Kinda like dusting powdered sugar on a cupcake. I use a regular strainer for larger size grit over most seeds, mainly so I can control the amount of covering. Once they are large enough to be transplanted to regular pots, I just add the grit by hand.


Fungi (major cause of damping-off) LOVE wet conditions. Using chick grit, and care in watering, is the best prevention for damping-off (if the seeds have been planted in a sterile container and medium). That means it's best not to water from the top! Set your pots or trays in a larger container with some tepid water in it. Leave them just long enough for the top layer of chick grit to get fully moistened. Let the seed pots/trays dry out before watering again, but not so dry as dust (the seedlings wilt)! Wilting is very stressful for seedlings, or any plant for that matter. I water my seed starter mix well and let it drain thoroughly before I put any seeds into it. Then I add my seeds, and cover with fine grit, or sometimes a mix of fine grit and sterile mix, depending on the seed size. All subsequent watering is done from the bottom.

I do mist my seedlings usually twice a day, as my house is always very dry from our winter heating system. I found a nifty 1500mL pressure sprayer with an adjustable brass nozzle at a big box store for under $8. I use bottled water (not tap water which contains chlorine, nor distilled water) for my seedlings and house plants, both for watering and for misting. My inexpensive pressure sprayer doesn't hold pressure for more than a few minutes, but it pumps up quickly and easily and sprays a fine mist.


Soilless seed starter mix usually contains no fertilizer, as the seed itself contains enough nutrition to get the seed started and survive until it gets a first set of true leaves.

After my seedlings get their first set (or sometimes their second set) of true leaves, I transplant them to individual small pots, and again use grit to cover the soil. From that point on, I add about a 1/4 teaspoon or less of a liquid general fertilizer per gallon of water to feed them every time I water. I just mix it up in a large plastic tote, set each tray in the water until thoroughly moistened, and make sure to stir up the water/fertilizer mix well between dunking trays. Throw any water not taken up by the trays out over the garden; don't try to save it.


ps... a couple more tips:
Sow seeds thinly to allow space for air to circulate between the seedlings. Provide constant some slight air movement 24/7 but not directly aimed at the seedlings. If you do everything else right but do not provide plenty of air circulation, you may still get damping-off!

Seedlings will "drown" if they stay in a soggy medium... the roots need oxygen. If you accidentally over-water seedlings (or any plant), just over-water them again (really!) with a mix of water and hydrogen peroxide and let them drain well. 

Misting with water mixed with either chamomile tea or clove tea is said to help prevent damping-off. So is a ONE TIME light dusting of powdered cinnamon or powdered charcoal on the soil surface. I haven't tried either...

Life Expectancy of saved garden seeds

Wax Bean Seed photo by dyogi

If, like me, you are thinking of saving vegetable seeds for a future garden, here's some info about shelf life. Within these time frames, stored seed will remain viable, although germination rates may decline a little.

Typical seed life if stored in cool, dry conditions:

5 years
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Chinese Cabbage
Celery
Chicory
Corn Salad (Mache)
Cress (both garden cress and watercress)
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Muskmelons
Radish
Spinach

4 years
Beet
Fennel
Mustard
Pumpkin
Rutabaga
Squash (both summer and winter varieties)
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Watermelon

3 years
Asparagus
Beans
Carrot
Chervil
Cowpea
Leek
Pea
Sorrel

2 years
Corn
Dandelion
Okra
Pepper
Salsify (black)

1 year
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Salsify

Source: Knott’s Handbook for Vegetable Gardeners, 1980 ed.

There's Something SO Exciting about seeing a Seed Sprout!

Today, my first seed sprout emerged. Keep in mind, I'm a gardener who starts seeds every year so it should be "old hat" to me, but somehow, it's as exciting as if I'd never seen it happen!

Perhaps because it reminds me of the infinite knowledge carried in a tiny seed that allows it to become a squash, or a pepper, or an orange tree... and to both provide food for me, and to also make more seeds so it can reproduce? Or perhaps it is a reminder that Life prevails in Nature despite humankind's collective efforts to destroy it.

It has always fascinated me that a single human egg and a sperm can combine and grow into a complex organism where some cells that have divided know to make arms or legs and other cells know to make hearts and lungs. 

I'm sure something similar happens when a plant seed starts to grow... some cells know to make stems and leaves, some know to make flowers... which in turn know to make fruits containing seeds, either on the outside like strawberries, blackberries or cashews, or the inside of the fruit like tomatoes and bananas.

It's kind of awesome, isn't it?

Experimenting with growing Sweet Potato Slips

I have never grown sweet potatoes. Last year I wanted to buy some slips, but first the many varieties and growing needs gave me too many options, and my timing was off anyway.

Last week a friend gave me some sweet potatoes from NC that are not supposed to be stringy, so I decided to try and grow my own slips from some of them. I DO remember my grandma putting a sweet potato in a glass bottle on the windowsill, and it produced a lovely plant. However, I was too young to know if she was starting slips, or just a pretty indoor plant.

So I dinked around the internet for how to start my own slips and decided to go for it. Shown in the photo above is a shallow pan, and a seed starting mix with an equal amount of sand mixed with it. Optimally, I'd have a box outside like a cold frame, and some fresh manure in the bottom to generate heat. Since I do not, this is my best idea for a substitute. 

I read that sweet potatoes need temps above 80ºF to germinate... and I can't remember if any of my sweet potatoes ever grew roots when stored in the kitchen bin the way white potatoes and onions do. I think I might remember if they did. Of course many potatoes, including sweet potatoes, are treated against germination before they hit the grocery store shelves.

I covered the sweet potatoes (a deeper pan would have been better), wet the soil down thoroughly, and brought it into the house where I placed it on an electric seed starting heat mat, and covered the top with plastic wrap and a towel to contain the heat and moisture.

I have no idea whatsoever if this will work, but I will be sure to report any success or failure!

Planning to grow Damson Plums

Damson Plums Fermenting for Wine

Half the Damson plums I got in Charlottesville recently are now happily fermenting into wine, and the other half is in the freezer, awaiting one of my fermenting vessels to get emptied, to make a plum-grape mix that's a pseudo-port. (I have 2 tubs of raspberry and 1 peach working now, besides the plums.)

Since I had pitted the plums without heating them, I decided to save the pits and see if I can start a couple of plum trees. I don't know if these are a hybrid plum or not, so it will be 3-5 years before I will know what kind of plums I will get... if in fact, I can grow any from these pits.

The process is fairly simple. Scrub the pits of all flesh, and allow to dry at least overnight. (I air-dried mine 2 days on a cookie sheet; I hope they aren't too dry.) The pits must be thoroughly dry or they will mold, but not so dry they are dead! 

When they are dry, place the pits in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator. Mine went into the back of a vegetable drawer, but I also marked my calendar so I don't forget them next year. (Things get lost in our shared refrigerator.)

About 2 months before the end of winter, remove the pits and soak them several hours in clean, room temperature water. Place a few of them in a plastic baggie of potting medium that's slightly moist, and put them back in the refrigerator. In several weeks they should start showing roots. Don't bang them around in the refrigerator; handle them carefully, and maybe even put the baggie(s) in a plastic container with a lid as collision insurance.

When the roots are at least half an inch long, you can transfer them to small seedling pots indoors, until all danger of frost has passed. Keep them slightly moist but not drowning. To plant them outside, put the whole soil nugget ball about 4" deep in moist soil and in a sunny location. They should continue to sprout and you should see above-ground growth by mid-spring.

I read that germination rates for pits are iffy, so I plan to use many of my pits. If I'm lucky, I'll have a few to share.